I admit that I am always tempted to roll my eyes a bit when Americans write about environmentalism and healthy living (a very green adolescence, part of which was spent in the incredibly wasteful consumer culture of the 1980s in the US, is probably at the bottom of my prejudices), but I’ve got to hand it to writers like Michael Pollan – they do it with much more passion and wit and much more enjoyably than any earnest German writer ever could.
In The Omnivore’s Dilemma, his book about the different methods of food production in modern America and their advantages and disadvantages, Pollan never, ever preaches at you, although I am sure that at times he was sorely tempted to do so. Instead, he goes on a quest for the origins of his own food, visiting hyper-industrialised corn farms (there’s a whole section about corn sex that’s a delight for plant geeks such as myself) and processing plants, cattle ranches and the evil stinking pens where cattle end their days, organic lettuce farms, an idyllic Appalachian farm that does pretty much everything right, and finally the California woods for some good ole pig hunting and mushroom gathering.
Does this sound weird? Actually, it’s both very illuminating (you’d never believe what sorts of “foods” can be made from corn) as well as entertaining. Pollan is a wonderful travelling companion through the world of food production – endlessly curious, very honest (at one point he reads a book about animal rights and is so impressed that he stops eating meat until he comes up with good enough arguments to refute the book), he’s a very good writer with extensive research to back him up and a knack for meeting the fascinating people. The self proclaimed “beyond organic” farmer whom Pollan helps to kill chicken and the Sicilian who takes him pig-hunting were among my favourites.
At the end of each chapter, Pollan cooks a meal from the food whose origin he has researched. The first meal is a McDonalds HappyMeal eaten in a car*, but by the end he’s progressed to a pig he shot himself (the hunt is described in great detail), mushrooms he gathered in the woods and other home-grown stuff. I’ll leave it to you to find out why he didn’t use the sea salt he gathered in the salt marshes near San Francisco.
You will like this book if you are at all interested in your food and your environment or if you just want to read a good book. Seriously, it makes for stellar reading!
Another very good book by the same author is The Botany of Desire, a book that tracks the history of apples, tulips, marihuana and potatoes, yea, verily. While it was the answer to a plant geek’s prayers, The Omnivore’s Dilemma will appeal to more general audiences.
(more…)